Lovely plum, kirsch and raspberry fruit cruises along, lined with anise notes and carried by a long, well-embedded graphite spine. Has perfume and purity. Drink now through 2020. 1,700 cases made.

Full ruby. Ripe blackberry and lavender scents complicated by suggestions of licorice, smoky minerals and cracked pepper. Sweet, seamless and expansive, offering juicy red and blue fruit flavors and zesty acidity that adds lift and cut. Finishes with very good clarity and length, leaving a subtle floral note behind.

I found both of these 2013s from Ogier to be solid, yet not inspiring. The 2013 Gigondas Oratorio is 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre that spent 12 months in one- to three-year-old demi-muids. It offers enjoyable, forward notes of Provencal herbs, peppery spice and leather in a medium-bodied, slightly lean style. Drink it over the coming 3-4 years.